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Darcy Smith - page 2

Darcy Smith has 283 articles published.

Meet the Ministry: Nicole Pressey

in 2025/Meet the Ministry/Spring/Summer 2025

Emma Holmes

As BC’s organic industry specialist and a Regional Agrologist, I have been able to meet many members of our organic community across the province. I also get to collaborate with other experts at the Ministry of Agriculture, and I am keen to highlight them and the important work they do, so you can get to know them—and hopefully collaborate with them too! This issue, I interviewed Nicole Pressey, Regional Agrologist for the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast region.

Emma Holmes (EH): Thanks so much for agreeing to do this interview! So let’s kick it off, when did you join the ministry?

Nicole Pressey (NP): I started fall 2016. I think it was September. I was very excited. It’s my dream job.

EH: Did you grow up in agriculture?

NP: No, no. I grew up in Toronto, not far from High Park on Lake Ontario. So pretty much a city kid, but I would hang out in the park a lot. Food, and eating good food, was always important growing up. And then I became aware of the environment in my teen years. In fact, I convinced my dad to get recycling in the condominium we lived in. He was a Superintendent.

I went to school for environmental studies, starting at York University, finishing my degree at the University of Northern British Columbia (UNBC). The biology professor, Darwin Coxon, was such a great instructor and the way he explained biology, his passion, was really engaging. I took a physical geography course about land formations and plate tectonics, which helped me understand why the land is formed this way, and why the soil or rivers or water bodies are the way they are. I had an environmental ethics course with Annie Booth that explained the different subsets of environmental ethics and why people do what they do. Understanding the why fits well with agriculture, especially as a regional agrologist when trying to encourage people to engage in projects or beneficial management practices, or support them to affect change or solve their challenges.

So, it just kind of came together. I started working for the Ministry of Environment in the Integrated Pest Management program in Prince George, regulating pesticide use. It was mostly vegetation management and herbicide use on forestry plantations.

I transferred down to the Okanagan, where I was exposed to more complaints about pesticide use and gained a better understanding of agriculture. I met Carl Withler, the Regional Agrologist for that area during my time in the Okanagan. He described his role: working with farmers and ranchers, local government and First Nations, land use planning, emergency management, handling enquiries and complaints. It sounded like a really diverse and different role, which I am drawn to; the variety and challenges, and working directly with people.

Then I took the Range Agrologist position in Burns Lake. I was working closely and on-the-ground with ranchers around grazing and hay cutting tenures on the Crown land base.

When we were in Burns Lake, I volunteered with the fall fair association. The community and teamwork and living in a rural area really appealed to me.

EH: It sounds like you have lived in a lot of communities in BC.

NP: My now-husband, Josh, and I moved to Prince George in May 1997 and lived there for eight years. We lived in Summerland for 13 months, then in Burns Lake for 10 years and we’ve been in Quesnel for 10 years now.

EH: So, you have experience in a wide range of agricultural systems?

NP: Yeah, it’s really neat. With climate change, we’re seeing some people, some producers especially, shift and push the envelope on what the climate can support.

In the South Cariboo, at high elevation, they’ve always been doing season extension techniques. And I’m hoping that they can share those season extension techniques with people who want to, say, grow watermelon or cantaloupe in the Cariboo outside of the banana belt (the Fraser River bench system). It was good to be a range agrologist and live in Prince George and Burns Lake because I saw what the climate and environment is like and what people are capable of doing.

EH: So cool. Tell me more about your current role.

NP: I’m a regional agrologist for the Cariboo and Central Coast, which aligns with the Cariboo Regional District boundary and the Central Coast Regional District boundary.

I explain my job as extension specialist and economic development officer for farmers, ranchers, and food processors. I’m the first point of contact for folks, whether it’s local government, producers, or Indigenous communities.

The NStQ is a modern treaty in the Cariboo and it involves the Tl’exelc First Nation (Williams Lake), the Xats’ull First Nation (Soda Creek), Stswecem’c Xgat’ten First Nation (Dog Creek/Canoe Creek), and Tsq’escen First Nation (Canim Lake).

It is the first treaty to include provincial range tenures. There is an overlap of proposed treaty lands with Crown range. The range tenure is held by private ranches. Because Crown range is such an integral part of a successful ranch, the Province provided the mandate to negotiate ranch acquisitions as part of the treaty negotiations.

Three ranches and a hay farm were purchased by the Province, and leased to each community until the treaty is finalized. Staff from the Ministry of Agriculture and Food’s Indigenous Partnerships and Reconciliation team engaged with each of the communities on three separate ranch transition contracts. The ranches switched from owner-operated to community-run operations with different business considerations, outside of raising forage and livestock. With the guidance of Erica Nitchie (Team Lead of Indigenous Food Systems), Ministry resources supported each community in taking on each ranch to mirror their vision.

It was so great to learn from the communities and Erica, how separate visions can come to fruition under a government contract. While the contracts have ended, Kristy (Kristy Palmantier, Indigenous Agriculture Development Officer), Erica, and I remain connected with the communities.

EH:The Regional Agrologist positions are so interesting because they’re all so different depending on the region, and you really need to be a Jack-of-all-trades.

NP: Yes, it’s so true. And I get so caught up in my region that when I call a colleague in another region, I am reminded of how diverse our work can be.

Beautiful vista in the Cariboo region. Credit: Maylies Lang.

EH: What projects are you currently working on?

NP: I get to sit on two regional extension committees because the Cariboo is split into two, to better align with regional livestock associations and the climate difference between Williams Lake and Quesnel.

The North Cariboo is paired with Hwy 16, and we have a crop demonstration for a changing climate project underway. We’re identifying crops that can grow in a hotter, dryer climate.

The Central and South Cariboo is paired with the North Thompson and North Okanagan. We’re trying to figure out which species you can intercrop with that will encourage pollinators and biodiversity while also being used for livestock feed.

So yeah, they’re exciting projects! We’ve done a lot of the groundwork over the last fiscal and hope to demonstrate it moving forward.

EH: Where in the region are you located?

NP: I live in Quesnel and am able to work from the Ministry of Forests office in Quesnel. I travel down to Williams Lake and 100 Mile House. Sadly, I don’t make it to the Central Coast as often as I would like.

EH: What is the best way for folks in your region to get a hold of you?

NP: The best way for people to reach me is my cell (250) 267-2765, my desk at (236) 713-2223, or Nicole.Pressey@gov.bc.ca.

Emma Holmes is the Organics Industry Specialist with the BC Ministry of Agriculture and Food. She studied Sustainable Agriculture and Soil Science at UBC, and then farmed on Salt Spring and worked on a permaculture homestead on Orcas Island. She now lives in Vernon and loves spending time in the garden. She can be reached at: Emma.Holmes@gov.bc.ca

Featured image: Nicole Pressey with mentor Carl Withler. Photo provided by Nicole Pressey.

Organic Stories: Grassy Gnome Acres, Okanagan and Syilx Territories

in 2025/Crop Production/Grow Organic/Land Stewardship/Livestock/Organic Community/Organic Stories/Winter 2025

Finding Laughter, Balance, and Community On The Farm

Kat Roger

Nestled in the Okanagan Valley, Lorna and Chris Church operate Grassy Gnome Acres on 65 acres of farmland in Coldstream, BC. At the start, Lorna and Chris never intended to become full-time farmers. In 2008, they were looking for a manageable five acres of forested land to develop a low-maintenance livestock operation that could provide high-quality food to their family and friends. Instead, they found themselves the stewards of a sprawling property which serendipitously backed onto Lorna’s parents’ farm. Despite their initial hesitation, “we had people and resources nearby to help if we got stuck, so it felt like the right decision,” Lorna says. Over time, this decision has blossomed into a thriving organic farm, full of all the joys and challenges of small-scale farming.

Grassy Gnome Acres started with 15 chickens for eggs and two pigs raised to finish. “People would ask us what we were doing, and then they wanted more, so we got more chickens and pigs,” Lorna recalls with a laugh. Initially, farming was just a way to care for the land and provide food for their family. But with her brother-in-law, sister, and mother running the nearby Vale Farms, Lorna was already deeply involved in local markets and the farming and food community. Following demand, Lorna and Chris’s livestock operation expanded with the support of their family, and soon they were raising chickens, turkeys, and pork to bring to market every week.

At the same time, the organic certification process sealed Grassy Gnome Acres’ transition from a hobby farm to a farm business. Lorna’s mother had long been a champion of organic farming, a commitment that grew from personal experiences with health and food. “After my dad’s head injury when I was young, my family became more aware of the connection between healthy eating and recovery,” Lorna explains. “Organic just made sense. It was never really a question for us.”

When she reflects about choosing to go organic, Lorna muses that, financially, the extra costs of organic production don’t always translate into higher profits. “When you have surplus, you often sell at a loss,” Lorna admits. Then there’s the ongoing paperwork: “It’s a lot to track, and it doesn’t give you added financial benefits.” But, Lorna says, “it feels right for us. I like knowing that I’m not putting anything on the farm that could harm the land or have unknown long-term impacts,” she says. “It’s a sense of pride to say our farm is organic.”

Feeding time for the flock. Credit: Maylies Lang.

Beyond the health and ecological benefits of raising animals organically, Lorna is also passionate about participating in the community generated by the organic movement. As the organic sector continues to evolve, Lorna hopes it will stay relevant without losing its core principles. “Regenerative farming is the new buzzword, but organic doesn’t need to change to fit in,” she says. “There’s space for all kinds of sustainable farming, and we can all learn from each other.”

She and Chris believe strongly in the power of farmer-to-farmer support, whether in the organic community, with other livestock farmers, or across the spectrum of production types and farming practices. Lorna enjoys seeing fellow farmers in Lumby when she can, reminiscing about their time together in 4-H as kids. She says these moments of connection and solidarity are important to her—there’s a feeling that “someone thinks about me and knows what I’m doing,” spitballing ideas with other farmers and connecting shared experiences in what can often be a solitary profession. One of Lorna’s favourite opportunities for collaboration is a partnership with Spray Creek Ranch, who have been selling Lorna and Chris’s pigs and sheep for years. More than anything, farming on the land alongside their family has shown Lorna and Chris the value of working together. Lorna shares that living next door to her family has been a lifeline: “If I have a sick animal or an irrigation issue, I can call my brother-in-law for advice,” she says. “We’ve leaned heavily on them.”

With three generations on the land, raising children on Grassy Gnome Acres has brought its own joys and challenges for Lorna and Chris. When the kids were younger, the farm was a playground, complete with pig wallows and chicken coops. The name Grassy Gnome Acres was inspired by Lorna and Chris’s free-running farm kids, dreamed up atop the grassy knoll the farm sits on as they watched the kids run around like little gnomes.

Lorna fondly recalls moments from those early years, like her two-year-old hurtling naked toward the pig wallow as she moved electric fences, wrestling piglets into football holds, or impromptu “date nights” with Chris spent catching chickens by moonlight. “Half the fun of farming is the ridiculous predicaments you end up in,” she says. “That’s why we keep going—because it’s fun.”

Interrupting meal time to investigate the camera. Credit: Maylies Lang.

In the excitement of those early years, she and Chris would finally sink into the couch after sunset in the summer, during the busiest season of haying, raising meat birds and turkeys, butchering, farrowing, and moving grazing animals, only to realize, “Hey, happy anniversary!” Lorna and Chris got married before they bought the farm, and Lorna reflects now: “Silly us, we chose to get married right in the middle of summer!”—leaving their anniversary between their busiest weeks of the year.

As the kids have grown, the balance between farming and family has become more complex. “Farming is a lifestyle, but it’s not the only thing we want in our lives,” Lorna says. Chris loves volunteering as a hockey coach in Lumby, while Lorna volunteers on the Okanagan Waldorf School board, and recreational activities like skiing and biking are priorities for their family, too. Beyond family fun, both Lorna and Chris have part-time and seasonal jobs off the farm. Lorna shares that in recent years, “we’ve consciously downsized to make room for other priorities. Farming is rewarding, but it can’t be everything.” They are working to balance their desire to farm with their need for sustainable income and time for non-farming activities with their kids.

Regardless of the necessities and pulls of the outside world, the rhythm of daily chores grounds Lorna in her love for the farm. Nowadays in the colder season, mornings are filled with feeding the pigs and livestock guardian dogs, chipping ice in troughs, and letting chickens out.

Afternoons bring more feeding, egg collection, and seasonal tasks like irrigation or moving animals to fresh pasture. Over the years, Lorna’s confidence with the animals has grown, including working with animals she didn’t grow up with on her family’s farm. “The first time I castrated a pig, my hands were shaking,” she laughs. “Now, it’s second nature.” Likewise, she was touched to see her children confidently take on the animal chores when she was sidelined by a recent injury (now recovered). “Farming forces you to get outside,” Lorna reflects. “Some of my favorite moments are these little pockets of beauty—a sunrise over the fields, the sheep moving through the grass. Those are the things that you remember.”

This year, Lorna and Chris plan to shear their own sheep, a skill they’ve been honing in recent months. They would love to get back into the fibre market for their wool and explore shearing lambs as well as ewes. They are also replanting trees on parts of the property affected by beetle kill, creating windbreaks and shelters for the animals. Looking farther into the future, Lorna says, “in less than 10 years we may be empty nesters with time on our hands to grow our operation, or our kids may be a new generation of young farmers with plans of their own. Both options are exciting!”

@grassy_gnome

Kat Roger is a lover of food, farming, and storytelling based on the west coast of Turtle Island.

Featured image: Herding dogs, playing on the job. Credit: Maylies Lang.

Organic Science Cluster 4: Regenerative Climate-Resilient Organic Vegetable Project

in 2025/Climate Change/Crop Production/Grow Organic/Land Stewardship/Tools & Techniques/Winter 2025

Jessica Chiartas

The Organic Science Cluster 4 (OSC4) is a national initiative aimed at advancing organic agriculture and enhancing the sustainability of Canadian agriculture through cutting-edge research and innovation. Funded by Agriculture and Agri-food Canada’s AgriScience Program and contributions from over 80 funding partners, OSC4 leverages public-private partnership to drive collaboration amongst researchers (10 universities and 13 research centers), producers, industry partners, and NGOs in five key categories: field crops, horticulture, pest management, livestock, and the environment.

The Regenerative Climate Resilient Organic Vegetable (RCRV) project is one of 14 research activities currently conducted under OSC4. RCRV is a groundbreaking five-year project to address critical gaps in our understanding of how organic farming practices in diversified vegetable systems can mitigate climate change and enhance on-farm resilience and profitability.

This interdisciplinary collaboration between the University of British Columbia (UBC), Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, the BC Ministry of Agriculture, industry specialists, non-governmental organizations including Organic BC, and 17 organically managed vegetable farms across British Columbia will: 1) develop tools to enable effective monitoring, reporting and verification of the climate mitigation and related co-benefits of regenerative and organic vegetable production; 2) identify a set of management practices with the greatest benefits across a diversity of soil and climatic conditions; and 3) assess social and economic barriers to adoption; and 4) develop strategies to overcome barriers.

RCRV uses a participatory approach to co-develop research priorities, identify regionally relevant treatments and implementation strategies, and disseminate results through demonstration and the development of farmer-to-farmer networks. Engaging partners on the ground, the project collectively determines which vegetable crop, regenerative organic practices, and treatment levels to investigate in each of the three agricultural regions that represent a diversity of climate and soils. Practices may include specific crop rotations, targeted compost applications, advanced nutrient management, cover cropping, and/or conservation tillage.

Oats and peas establishment check at Green Fire Farm on Vancouver Island. Credit: Raelani Kesler.

Participatory Approach: A Two-way Exchange

RCRV builds on a research project that began in 2015 at UBC Farm, investigating the impact of organic farming on soil health. In 2017, recognizing that BC has a vast diversity of climates, soil types, and production systems that may respond differently to similar management, UBC researchers and 19 local farms came together to expand the project, adopting a “parent-child” design. UBC and Green Fire would serve as “parent” sites, where long-term rigorous research is conducted through controlled experiments using state-of-the-art instrumentation. The 18 other farms would serve as “child” sites: working farms across BC where farmers implement and test the same practices under diverse, real-world conditions.

Every two years, the data is analyzed, discussed, and used to inform subsequent research questions, methodologies, and experimental design, creating a dynamic, two-way exchange. This dual approach ensures that research is both scientifically robust and practically relevant, while strengthening the relationship between researcher and grower. The result is more appropriate and relevant research questions on one end and more dissemination and adoption of research findings on the other.

For instance, on Vancouver Island, growers were interested in cover cropping, but were unsure when to seed, how to terminate, and how to adjust nutrient management to minimize nutrient losses and maximize yields. Together, researchers, industry specialists, and growers identified treatment plans including two tillage options: standard bed preparation or reduced (mowing and tarping prior to planting); and four nutrient management strategies: typical (standard fertilizer and compost application), summer cover crop + compost + feather meal (rate based on soil nutrient levels and crop removal of nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P)), Compost + feather meal (rate based on soil nutrients and crop removal of N and P), and Winter cover crops (Rye, peas, and crimson clover).

Digging into the Practices: Project Treatments

The project focuses on a suite of organic practices hypothesized to have regenerative outcomes, including:

  • Advanced Nutrient Management: conduct soil testing to assess nutrient levels and develop a nutrient management plan based on test results and crop demand. Apply targeted amounts of compost and feather meal to optimize nutrient use efficiency.
  • Cover Cropping: Planting a diverse mix of species in winter and/or summer for diverse outcomes (i.e. summer for weed suppression and nitrogen; winter for erosion control).
  • Crop Rotations: Adding crop diversity over space and time by incorporating a summer cover crop to reduce the need for external inputs.
  • Conservation Tillage: Reducing tillage intensity to maintain soil structure and minimize loss of soil (erosion) and organic matter.

Measuring Outcomes

To assess the effectiveness of these practices, UBC researchers will measure:

  • Greenhouse Gas Emissions: Using rigorous in-field monitoring of nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide, and methane emissions at UBC Farm throughout the year.
  • Soil Carbon Sequestration: Quantifying changes in soil organic carbon using samples taken before the implementation of practices and again at the end of the project.
  • Soil Health: Assessing soil physical, chemical, and biological properties as soil health indicators, including bulk density, soil nitrogen, and phosphorus annually.
  • Crop Yields and Quality: Evaluating the productivity and quality of crops, including biomass, total cover (%), total plant nitrogen.
  • Costs and Farmer Perceptions: Tracking management, inputs, labour, and farmer feedback on the implementation of the practices.

The data will contribute to the adaptation of a greenhouse gas emissions model developed for Canadian agriculture, to better predict outcomes from diversified organic vegetable production. The data will also be used to identify barriers to adoption and strategies that might address them.

Timelines and Progress

In spring of 2023, UBC researchers established nutrient management experiments at UBC Farm and Green Fire Farm, measuring outcomes of eight different management approaches. Field trials were also set up at UBC Farm, Green Fire Farm, and two child sites to identify optimum summer cover crop mixes (peas, oats, and/or fava bean) for soil nitrogen, weed suppression, and overall performance with and without irrigation.

The following year, UBC researchers launched an experiment at UBC and Green Fire farms focused on minimum tillage and crop rotations. They recruited five child farms on Vancouver Island, facilitated a dialogue, and co-developed research priorities, treatments, and experimental design. Soil and plant samples were collected at the onset and after the first growing season at all seven sites and are currently being processed and analyzed.

In 2025, UBC researchers plan to integrate their learnings from field trials on Vancouver Island to recruit an additional 10 child farms in the Kootenays and Lower Mainland. Sampling will continue annually, and the resulting data will be used to inform management the subsequent season. In 2028, all project data (agronomic, environmental, and socioeconomic) will be synthesized to develop and disseminate recommendations.

Data collected from the summer cover crop field trials showed higher cover crop biomass and percent cover under irrigation relative to no irrigation with no significant differences by species. Weed biomass was also higher under irrigation with significantly higher weed pressure under fava bean relative to all other mixes. Fava bean may require a higher seeding rate or different termination date. It was noted that all species were a bit more mature (i.e. seed pods/heads emerging) at time of termination than ideal for N turnover through decomposition. Further analysis will be conducted to estimate N release from the different cover crop mixes available for uptake for subsequent crops.

End of summer cover crop plots ready for measurement and termination at Amara Farm on Vancouver Island. Credit: Raelani Kesler.

Grower Benefits and Getting Involved

Joining the RCRV project offers growers a unique opportunity to enhance their farm’s sustainability, resilience, and profitability while contributing to the larger organic regenerative movement! Participants will not only have access to cutting edge research but will help inform it. Insights gained from the research can be applied directly on farm to improve soil health, conserve water, increase biodiversity, and boost on-farm resilience, while optimizing input use and yields to maximize profitability. Growers in this project also benefit from the knowledge and support of like-minded growers in their own region, who understand the unique risks and challenges, can share from their own successes and failures, and can help troubleshoot viable solutions.

Growers also receive support from an interdisciplinary team of researchers and industry specialists as well as access to resources, training, and tools. This includes comprehensive nutrient analysis of soil, cover crop, and amendments (each spring); free or reimbursed inputs for the trial area (including cover crop seed, compost, etc); analysis of crop nutrient levels and yield; detailed nutrient balances and support for nutrient management plans; and individualized analyses of financial and climate-related benefits of management (requires interview participation). Finally, growers will be given the opportunity to influence agricultural policies and the future of organic farming; sharing their views on how government/industry can support.

Growers interested in getting involved can sign up for project communications; attend project workshops and field days; and/or participate in on-farm trials. The UBC Farm Research Manager will follow up with interested parties to discuss individual farm goals, select the size and location of field trials, and determine treatments, implementation approach, and trial design.

ubcfarm.research@ubc.ca

Jessica Chiartas is a postdoctoral scholar and Research Manager for the Center for Sustainable Food Systems at University of British Columbia. She has a PhD in Soils & Biogeochemistry from the University of California, Davis and is founder and creator of Soil Life and RegenScore.

Featured image: Sustainable Agricultural Lab members Auguste Bruno and Olivia Sasson seed summer cover crop mixes (fava beans, oats, spring peas) for a trial at UBC Farm. Credit: Raelani Kesler.

IFOAM’s Organic World Congress in Taiwan

in 2025/Grow Organic/Organic Community/Organic Standards/Winter 2025

IFOAM’s Organic World Congress in Taiwan

Katie Fettes

In early December 2024, I joined hundreds of farmers, researchers, policymakers, and advocates at the 21st IFOAM Organic World Congress (OWC) in Taiwan. It was a week of inspiring conversations, knowledge exchange, and powerful grounding in the transformative potential of organic agriculture to address global challenges.

The event took place at Nanhua University, set in the hills north of Chiayi City, between the mountains and Taiwan’s southwest coast. The university’s team worked tirelessly to provide a warm welcome and excellent organization, making the Congress an energizing and engaging experience for all.

Cultivating Global Solutions

Many delegates had toured organic farms across the island before arriving at the Congress to dive into the agenda centered on “Cultivating Organic Solutions for True Sustainability.”

A pre-conference session explored how regenerative, organic, and agroecology movements can work and grow together. This set the tone for the week: a celebration of organic farming’s successes and a call for greater collaboration across borders, sectors, and systems.
Themes included the role of policy, market development, and farmer engagement in advancing organic agriculture. Delegates from Nepal, Tanzania, Brazil, Taiwan, and beyond shared how grassroots movements have influenced national policies.

During a plenary session on “Regional and National Organic Policy: Breakthroughs and Lessons Learnt across the Globe,” I shared Canada’s experience—highlighting the sector’s potential for growth, our research linking organics to key policy goals, and the work of the Canadian Organic Alliance (COA) in building advocacy momentum.

From discussions on outcomes-based frameworks that measure the environmental benefits of organics to innovative strategies for making organic farming more accessible to smallholder farmers, the Congress provided a platform to exchange global best practices and innovations.

Building Global Connections

Throughout the week, we strengthened ties with key IFOAM platforms, including the Inter-Continental Network of Organic Farmer Organizations (INOFO). INOFO facilitates farmer-to-farmer exchanges, providing an opportunity for Canadian farmers to learn from and share knowledge with global peers.

We also connected with members of IFOAM North America, our regional body. As part of this network, we’re excited to collaborate with North American partners to advance organic agriculture regionally and globally.

I was pleased to join a strong Canadian delegation at the Congress, including representatives from the Canada Organic Trade Association, Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada, Riverside Natural Foods, CETAB+ (Centre d’expertise et de transfert en agriculture biologique et de proximité, or Centre of Expertise and Transfer in Organic and Local Agriculture), and Bishop’s University. Together, we contributed to discussions and brought back valuable ideas to strengthen Canada’s organic sector.

Presenting Canada’s organic policy work during a global policy plenary session. Credit: IFOAM.

A Closer Look at Taiwan’s Organic Journey

Taiwan offers an interesting case study, having made significant strides in organic food and farming over the past decade.

The Organic Agriculture Promotion Act, passed in 2019, reinforced Taiwan’s commitment to food sovereignty, biodiversity protection, and climate resilience through agriculture. Since the end of 2018, organic and eco-friendly farmland has more than doubled1, with the government supporting farmer incentives, organic research, local supply chains, public procurement, and regional branding.

You Si-Kun, Former Premier of Executive Yuan, opened the conference with an invigorating speech on Taiwan’s work to develop the Act as a commitment to address the climate crisis.

Taiwan’s holistic approach reflects the core principles of organic agriculture—health, ecology, fairness, and care—and its policy journey reminds us that while the process may be long, the outcomes are deeply impactful.

Looking Ahead

On December 5-6, 2024, following the Congress, I participated in the IFOAM General Assembly (GA). This decision-making body votes on motions, elects the World Board, and selects the next Congress location—set for the Philippines in 2027.

The OWC reaffirmed that the global organic movement is growing and evolving, with excellent work underway all around the world. Countries like Nepal and Tanzania are advancing national organic strategies that could serve as models for Canada.

Returning home, I felt energized by these examples and grateful to be immersed in a dynamic global community. These global experiences will undoubtedly shape our work in Canada as we advocate for supportive policies and stronger networks to grow the organic sector.

The message was clear: organic agriculture isn’t just an alternative—it’s the future. The work ahead is exciting, and the momentum is global.

See you in the Philippines in 2027!

Want more info about the Organic World Congress?

  • Check out IFOAM’s recap: bit.ly/3WNYww6
  • See content from the Organic World Congress, including videos about organic products in Taiwan: owc.ifoam.bio
  • Watch a recap video here: bit.ly/4jMgJDU

Katie Fettes is the Director of Policy and Research with Canadian Organic Growers, where she works with farmers and advocates to support the shift to a more regenerative and resilient food and farming system through federal policy and research.

References

1 oapc.org.tw/en/current-status

Featured image: Delegates from around the world gather at Nanhua University for the 21st IFOAM Organic World Congress. Credit: IFOAM.

Agroecology for Climate Project Kicks Off in Germany and India

in 2025/Land Stewardship/Organic Community/Organic Standards/Winter 2025

Eva-Lena Lang

In the fall of 2024, I had the privilege of accompanying University of British Columbia (UBC) researchers on a two-week field visit to Germany and India. With a focus on agroecology and organic practices, we built relationships with research partners, community organizations, farmers, and farmer communities and gained insights into how farmers can build locally relevant, resilient, and sustainable food systems in response to climate change.

This trip was the launch of the Agroecology for Climate Adaptation and Mitigation project, a research project focused on agroecological transitions in vulnerable farming communities in Canada, Germany, India, and Brazil. For more details about the project, please see the project overview: bit.ly/4hKeuPW

Germany ​​(September 18 – 24)

In Germany, we met with research and community partners from the other three countries. We toured three farms in northeastern Germany, close to Berlin, and worked at the Leibniz Centre for Agricultural Landscape Research (ZALF) and the University of Hohenheim, where we all co-developed our research, presented our case studies, and clarified how we will work together moving forward.

We spent two days workshopping at the University of Hohenheim, the oldest agricultural university in Germany. I also presented on BC agriculture, Organic BC, and our provincial network. Credit: Eva-Lena Lang.
Hof Marienhohe, one of the farms we visited in northeastern Germany. Founded in 1928, Hof Marienhohe is one of the oldest biodynamic farms in the world. After the Second World War, there were land reforms in Eastern Germany, and everything produced at the farm had to be given away—maximizing production without caring for the land. After the fall of the Berlin Wall, a lot of effort was put into restoring the soil and revitalizing the land. Credit: Eva-Lena Lang.

India (September 26 – October 1)

In India, I joined Hannah Wittman and Carolina Diaz from UBC for a tour of 11 farms, two food processing sites, two incredible organizations (the Organic Farming Association of India, or OFAI, and Thanal Trust), and the Organic Agriculture Department at Kerala Agriculture University, where we met the Dean and presented to the agricultural extension and organic agriculture faculty.

Kerala’s farming sector is facing major challenges, such as reduced rice cultivation, a shift towards crops like rubber and coconut, and a lack of infrastructure for irrigation and storage. As well, government neglect, ecological damage (from floods, landslides, and other events), and low farmer incomes have led to a decline in interest in farming, with many people seeking work in other sectors, including abroad. The visit emphasized the importance of shifting mindsets, with OFAI promoting democratic governance and gender inclusivity in decision-making, as well as fostering knowledge transfer through regular gatherings and local leadership.

A rice seed conservation plot at OFAI, with 76 varieties of Indigenous seed. In Kerala, the monsoon season has shifted and lengthened and weather has become more unpredictable, highlighting the importance of Indigenous seeds that are more resilient to extreme heat, drought, and rain. OFAI even has a public seed directory that proves a diversity of seeds exists, helping farmers and organizations stand up to the agrichemical companies. Credit: Eva-Lena Lang

 

Thanal is an organization engaged in conservation and organic farming, and supporting farmers through organic transition and subsidized certification. Our meeting with Thanal’s Executive Director, Mr. Jayakumar C (second from right), focused on conservation, biodiversity, and the harmful effects of pesticides. Dr. Archana R. Sathyan (left) kindly hosted us in Kerala and generously organized our week in India. Credit: Eva-Lena Lang

Key Themes, Insights, and Lessons Learned

Organic Practices, Soil Health, and Agroecology

Organic farming practices were at the core of our visit, especially with respect to enhancing soil health. In Brandenburg, the farmers we met with are committed to regenerating soil that had been depleted due to overuse, particularly after the Cold War, and presented many examples of building soil health through organic compost, crop rotations, and ecosystem services. In India, organic practices are promoted not only for environmental reasons, but also for health and community wellbeing. Farmers highlighted the importance of using local inputs like neem oil for pest management and promoting biodiversity to maintain soil vitality.

Our visit also underscored the importance of agroecology as a holistic approach to farming, which is being integrated into long-term land management strategies, with a focus on biodiversity and ecosystem services.

Farmer Empowerment, Mobilizing Farmers, and Cooperative Methods

A central theme across both countries was the mobilization of farmers through social networks, peer groups, and cooperative structures, working together for market access, shared knowledge, and support.

Historical Context and Resilience

Both countries’ agricultural practices are shaped by their respective histories. In Germany, the legacy of the Cold War and land depletion during that time are important historical contexts, and the shift toward sustainable farming practices was driven by the need to rebuild and protect the land. In India, the challenges of colonial agriculture followed by post-independence land reforms shaped farming practices and social structures, with some areas now focusing on small-scale, organic farming as a sustainable alternative.

We were invited to a community lunch at Farmers Share, a farm and arts centre neighbouring OFAI, along with employees and their families. Credit: Eva-Lena Lang.

 

During the Cold War, the land at Biohof Behring was seized and used to produce as much food as possible without caring for the soil. Now, the farm is back with the original family and is one of over 200 organic demonstration farms in Germany. It is host to orchards, livestock, agritourism, and a shift to broadleaf forest for timber (planting for future generations). Credit: Eva-Lena Lang

The Importance of Ecosystem Services and Long-Term Planning

German farmers, such as Ralf Behring and the collective at Hof Marienhohe, emphasize the importance of focusing on ecosystem services and long-term soil health rather than maximizing short-term yields. This approach helps farmers plan for multigenerational success and biodiversity conservation. In India, while organic farming practices are often smaller in scale, they also reflect a long-term view, focusing on improving soil health and creating resilient farming systems.

Government Support and Policy Innovation

Government policies in both countries are a critical factor in supporting organic farming. In Germany, subsidies for organic farms are available, though they are sometimes seen as restrictive. In India, while there is potential for government support for organic farming, it is often insufficient or misaligned with the needs of small farmers. There is a clear call for more direct and effective government policies that prioritize organic farming and farmer autonomy.

Global and Local Parallels

The visit highlighted how global challenges, such as climate change and soil degradation, are tackled through local solutions. The exchange with German and Indian farmers was instrumental in understanding the parallels in challenges and the diversity of approaches to sustainable farming, and demonstrated that global issues often require local solutions tailored to specific environmental and social contexts.

Market Access and Certification Challenges

Access to markets and the challenge of certification are significant concerns for organic farmers in India, which they overcome by working collectively. Government subsidies for organic farming are available but are not always aligned with the needs of farmers. The certification process is often costly, but Thanal, with support from the government, provides various incentives and support.

Ms.Vanni’s farm and store in Haripad, Kerala, India. Her farm focuses on resiliency, diversity, and providing for the community. They grow their own produce for their store and run a processing facility to reduce food waste and increase regional seed, and also work with around 140 local farmers, who comprise a balance of small-scale farmers (with off-farm jobs) and full-time farmers. Credit: Eva-Lena Lang.

Cultural and Community Pride

Throughout the visit, the sense of community, pride, and enthusiasm was palpable. In both Germany and India, farmers expressed deep pride in their work and a collective desire to protect the land for future generations. The importance of community-based approaches and the role of farmer organizations in providing support and education was emphasized as crucial for building resilience and fostering sustainable agricultural practices.

The exchange of knowledge and experiences between farmers in these two diverse regions demonstrated the power of collaboration in addressing global agricultural challenges. I was struck by the fluidity and respectful nature of all the conversations across fields and cultures and the shared passion and hope to drive a better future. These global relationships have the power to influence the systems in which we do our work, and to do it better.

Thank You

Every host in Germany and India was incredibly generous with their time and hospitality. I would not have been able to participate and contribute to this immense opportunity—a privilege—if it wasn’t for Hannah Wittman inviting Organic BC to be UBC’s community research partner in this three-year project, and for the Organic BC team managing everything while I was away.

I am excited to see this project unfold over the next three years as we collaboratively work across borders to support farmers and actors in our regional food systems.

Eva-Lena Lang lives on the traditional territory of the Syilx Okanagan people and is the executive director of Organic BC.

Featured image: A visit to the farm of Mr. Ankara Nampoothiee (second row, right) in Sreekrishnapuram, Kerala, India. Mr. Nampoothiee and his wife (second row, middle) are leaders in organic agriculture and education. Before going on a tour of the farm, everyone enjoyed sweets and tea, got to know each other, and explored the home, which was built in a traditional manner and designed to keep the interior cool. Even the yard had its own cooler microclimate due to the intentional planting around the home. Credit: Eva-Lena Lang.

Organic Potato Monitoring in the Fraser Valley

in 2025/Crop Production/Grow Organic/Pest Management/Tools & Techniques/Winter 2025

David Hanam and Kelly Wang

According to Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, potatoes are the fifth largest primary agriculture crop in Canada. In 2023, approximately 5.8 metric tonnes of potatoes were produced across Canada, with British Columbia contributing to approximately 2%1.

Since 1988, E.S. Cropconsult Ltd. has provided monitoring services to various potato growers in BC’s Lower Mainland region. We utilize integrated pest management (IPM) to ensure our growers are up to date with the latest pest news for their cropping systems. IPM uses biologically informed decision-making processes to prevent or manage pests while minimizing pesticide use and maintaining optimal crop yields.

Potato field. Credit: E.S. Cropconsult Ltd.

Early pest detection from weekly monitoring, often called scouting, is key to effective management. In organic production, the timing of management is crucial to prevent pest development due to the limited use of chemical controls. We monitor fields by visual inspecting for pests when plants are small (“crawling”). When plants grow taller as the season progresses, potato fields are swept for pests (“sweep-netting”).

Pest levels are recorded, and data are analyzed to determine if management is necessary to prevent reaching the point where the monetary crop loss is more than the cost to manage the pest (action or economic threshold). Weekly monitoring also allows for management actions to be followed up on to determine if they were effective or if further management of the pest will be necessary. Late blight of potato, Phytophthora infestans, and tuber flea beetles (TFBs), Epitrix tuberis, are the top pests of concern in Fraser Valley potatoes due to the risk they pose for crop damage and losses.

Visual inspection. Credit: E.S. Cropconsult Ltd.

Late blight is most prevalent in moderate temperatures and when free moisture is present2. Foliar symptoms include circular or irregularly shaped water-soaked lesions that turn dark brown and are usually surrounded by a light green halo. When conditions are humid, a white fungal-like growth (mycelium) may be present in the lesions on the underside of the leaf. Brown to black lesions may also be present on the stems and petioles. Tubers can become infected when spores are washed into the soil from infected foliage, or if tubers are dug while infected vines still have active lesions. Maintaining a consistent fungicide spray interval can help to protect plants against late blight.

Tuber flea beetles (TFBs) are insect pests that have two generations per year with three adult peaks3. Adults can be identified by their enlarged jumping legs, reddish antennae and legs, dull colour, and striations along their backs. Adults will feed on foliage causing small circular holes (“shot holes”) and when disturbed will quickly jump. The larvae are whitish and slender, growing up to five millimetres long and have a brown head. The larvae will feed on tubers, which can reduce potato marketability and create an introduction point for disease.

Late blight. Credit: E.S. Cropconsult Ltd.

The first generation begins in mid-May, when overwintering adult TFBs emerge, before mating and laying eggs in the soil. Timely management of these overwintering adults can help reduce the population of subsequent generations. From June to July, larvae hatch and feed on roots and underground stems for three to four weeks before pupating. In mid to late July, these pupae emerge as the summer-generation adults that again mate and lay eggs, which hatch in August. Management of the summer-generation adults can help to reduce tuber damage done by larvae, since they have the potential to cause the highest damage to tubers. The larvae develop into adults which will overwinter until next spring.

Due to the limited use of chemical controls for organic growers, the use of alternative management practices is important. Cultural management practices create less suitable environments through preventative actions. These include removing pest host plants, such as Solanaceous weeds and volunteer potatoes, and using a crop rotation program to prevent pest populations from building. Strips of potatoes (“headlands”) can be planted beside the main crop to act as a buffer to minimize the movement of pests further into the field. Creating habitats to promote beneficial insect populations can aid in reducing pest levels through predation.

Crop scout sweeping. Credit: E.S. Cropconsult Ltd.

To learn more about IPM and E.S. Cropconsult Ltd, please visit: escrop.com

David Hanam has a B.Sc. in Environmental Sciences from the University of British Columbia. He is currently the IPM Consultant for organic potatoes at E.S. Cropconsult Ltd.

Kelly Wang has a B.Sc. in Environmental Sciences and M.Sc. in Plant Science from the University of British Columbia. She is currently the Research Project Lead at E.S. Cropconsult Ltd.

Tuber flea beetle adult. Credit: E.S. Cropconsult Ltd.

References
1 Agriculture and Agri-food Canada. 2024. Potato Market Information Review 2023-2024.
agriculture.canada.ca/sites/default/files/docu ments/2024-12/Potato_MI_Review_2023_2024_EN.pdf

2 Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs. 2009. Late blight.
cropipm.omafra.gov.on.ca/en-ca/crops/potatoes/diseases/804fa9d9-c964-4fc1-ab30-153137c3c6e1

3 E.S. Cropconsult. 2021.Tuber Flea Beetle – A BC Small-Scale Farmer’s IPM Guide. B.C. Climate Change Adaptation Program.
bcclimatechangeadaptation.ca/library/tuber-flea-beetle-ipm-guide

Featured image: Crop scout inspecting net. Credit: E.S. Cropconsult Ltd.

Letting Legumes Do the Heavy Lifting

in 2025/Climate Change/Crop Production/Grow Organic/Tools & Techniques/Winter 2025

BC Living Lab Sets Sights on Increasing Forage Quality

Stacey Santos

Nicomen Farm sprawls over 350 acres on Nicomen Island, nestled between the farming community of Deroche, BC and the fertile Fraser River. Ripe for agriculture, this region grows diverse commodities, including Nicomen Farm’s three main streams of revenue: producing grass-fed milk from 120 cows in mixed herds, harvesting silage and hay, and also raising additional animals and replacement cows for other dairies.

But what makes Nicomen Farm especially fertile is its underlying philosophy and its abundance of land. Since 1955, it has operated on the principle of feeding their cows predominantly through intensive rotational grazing, a practice that improves plant, animal, and soil health. Young stock are all grazed from four months old, and bred heifers and dry cows are in the back 40 on rough pasture.

Because Nicomen Farm has fields that are both grazed and cropped when opportunity allows, the location provides a great—and rare—opportunity to look at the incorporation of legumes within those two systems.

What is BC Living Lab?

BC Living Lab is a producer-centric innovation project focused on climate change mitigation that benefits the environment while meeting farmers’ needs. It brings together farmers, scientists and other partners to co-develop and test beneficial management practices that have the potential to increase carbon sequestration, mitigate greenhouse gas emissions, and increase producer adoption.

BC Living Lab is led by the Investment Agriculture Foundation of BC (IAF) and is part of a nationwide network of living labs under Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada’s Agricultural Climate Solutions – Living Labs program. To learn more, visit: bclivinglab.ca

Mixed forage in the field. Credit: Organic BC.

BC Living Lab at Nicomen Farm

Mike Witt is the project agrologist for the dairy BC Living Lab activities, which focus on Beneficial Management Practices including low emissions manure spreading and alternative methods of manure handling, relay cropping, and, specific to Nicomen Farm, incorporating legumes into perennial forage stands to help with nitrogen balancing.

“Legumes can fix their own nitrogen, so there are two benefits to this, both from a forage quality perspective—if we can increase the protein or the quality of the protein within the forage—or else there could be a yield benefit,” Mike explains. “Additionally, if we can reduce the outside nitrogen inputs onto the farm, we can make the farm more efficient.”

Even before partnering with BC Living Lab, Nicomen Farm owner John Kerkhoven had already experimented with including legumes in pasture and forage to both benefit the soil and increase milk yield. He had incorporated mostly clovers over the past few years, and after the project kicked off about a year ago, he started to include birdsfoot trefoil in the grass mixes, both for overseeding and for new pasture.

“It’s really a win-win in many ways, and it’s also good for soil health,” John says, echoing Mike’s hopes for the project.”

“We attempt to be a low input farm,” John adds. “The hope is that we will be able to reduce fertilizer cost. The secondary benefit of course is greenhouse gas emissions—if we are able to use less chemical fertilizers, that will lead to a smaller greenhouse gas footprint.”

Why Legumes?

Incorporating legumes is of interest to BC Living Lab because they’re nitrogen fixers, meaning they’re able to take nitrogen from the atmosphere as long as they have a symbiotic relationship with the correct bacteria on the roots. This symbiosis leads to the formation of nitrogen-fixing nodules, and the nitrogen is then used by that plant, and can also transfer to some of the plants around it, regardless of their species.

In addition to the nitrogen fixing ability of the legumes, they’re also beneficial from a soil health standpoint. Introducing a new plant species group with different root architecture and different abilities to feed soil microbes as compared to the grass species allows for increased diversity in the stand, helping cycle nutrients and improve soil health and tilth over the long run.

As well, legumes in general can tolerate a wide range of conditions, which is why BC Living Lab chose trefoil for this location. Trefoil has a good bloat tolerance for grazing situations, can tolerate a wide range of pH, can persist in wetter soils (even flood situations), and has the ability to self-seed if it’s allowed to mature. And, the BC Living Lab provides access to some Canadian genetics, so trefoil that’s bred for local climatic conditions can be used.

The Trials

For the BC Living Lab project, the pastures at Nicomen Farm are seeded with only orchard grass in the control fields, and with a mix of orchard grass and birdsfoot trefoil in the test fields.

As far as results go at Nicomen Farm, researchers are working together with farmers and other project partners in measuring a wide range of attributes: soil testing for carbon, yields and forage quality, inputs and outputs from nutrients on the farm, and potential impacts on production and economics. Additionally, the project is examining any environmental benefits in terms of changes in emissions or environmental degradation due to residual nitrogen or other loss factors.

And while Nicomen Farm is rare in that it has plenty of land and practices rotational grazing, these results can be translated to any dairy farm that grows their own forage for their cows.

What’s Next?

On-farm projects like these can be challenging, whether it be because of drought, excess moisture at seeding times, or other unforeseen circumstances. At Nicomen Farm, researchers had a difficult time getting the field established the way they like around seeding windows and moisture conditions, so they don’t have all the results they expected at this point. But still, with two years left in the project, Mike hopes to see the trials roll out across more acres.

“While all the results of this project aren’t in yet, there’s a lot of optimism around it and its future potential for farms in BC,” Mike says. “I think that the practice of incorporating legumes into perennial stands could be applicable throughout the province.”

Stacey Santos is the Communications Manager for Organic BC. She lives, writes and gardens in the beautiful and traditional territories of the Lekwungen peoples, who are now known as the Esquimalt and Songhees Nations.

Funding for BC Living Lab has been provided by Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada (AAFC) through the Agricultural Climate Solutions (ACS) – Living Labs program. The publication of this article was made possible through AAFC’s ACS – On-Farm Climate Action Fund.

Featured image: Dairy cows enjoying the shade. Credit: Organic BC.

Biodynamic Farm Story: Where Anna Muses On The Shelf Life

in 2025/Winter 2025

Anna Helmer

The goal is always to finish planting garlic, which is the last of the field jobs, the morning before the first snow-laden clouds lower into the valley. At that point, the snow will mercifully cover up and temporarily defeat the farm’s problem areas. Currently, those areas are rather difficult to ignore, and in some cases running completely amuck.

Luxury to me is waxing on about farming whilst sitting inside on a computer with the blinds drawn on the window. I am wallowing in it right now and, in fact, it’s next-level lavish luxury: it’s teaming snow and rain outside, the kettle is on the boil again, there’s no market this week, the farmstand is full enough, and there are no more orders to fulfill. Simply put, there’s no need to farm today and it won’t be necessary tomorrow either and even if I wanted to, there’s little else I can do for the farm in 2024. In fact, the final profit and loss statement of the year is only days away, and a fresh farming financial start awaits in five days, four days, three, two, one…

Here’s a top-secret admission: writing about farming is far easier than doing actual farming. Unless you are writing about Biodynamic farming of course, in which case the reverse is true. I’ve made my choices; I’m learning to live with them.

The last meaningful work of 2024 was to bury cow horns filled with manure at the foot of the garden. This is the basis of Biodynamic Preparation 500, which is really the basis of Biodynamic farming itself, and it ought to be done much earlier in the fall. Not only is it conventional Biodynamic wisdom to do it then, but normally the ground is completely frozen and undiggable by the end of December. However, the weather that has passed for winter so far has not achieved that and the ground is soft. We’ve taken full advantage by putting off the job in favour of all the other work.

Stuffing manure into cow horns and burying them for a season or two is obviously a distinctly Biodynamic activity. What we are trying to do is capture and concentrate stored cosmic energy that we can later spread over the fields. This is really the essence of Biodynamic farming: get the infinite energy of the universe into the people via the food we grow. No big deal.

We don’t have cattle, so the manure comes from elsewhere. For this batch, we are using a pail of finest Fraser Valley product provided by one of the finest Fraser Valley farmers I know. The horns are from our collection. We’ve had them for years now. I am not sure of the lifespan of cow horns intended for Biodynamic Preparation making. I suspect we are pushing it, but they worked last year.

That is one of the nice things about using Biodynamic methods on your farm: you can pick and choose what you want to do and think, depending on your conditions. In our case, there are no herds of horned cattle around that aren’t pets and it’s unneighbourly to hover around waiting for them to croak to get at their horns. We need to make ours last. I figure when they can’t hold water anymore, they are done.

You see the problem with Biodynamics: it’s hard to pin down best practices. The International Demeter Standard, posted in four languages on their website, addresses the issue:
demeter.net/certification/standard

Right off the hop, it points out that the huge diversity of conditions all over the world means that it is up to the farmer to learn and decide what works and what to attempt. Conventional Biodynamic wisdom would suggest that burying old horns stuffed with manure that did not come off your farm the day before Christmas is not in line with the recommendations. However, as practical considerations brought us to this point, we think it’s reasonable. Ergo, we are in compliance.
The standard even protects us from hard-liners who might censure such a loose approach to seasonal and material definition by clearly stating: “adherence with formalities is not the goal of Biodynamics.” I have this bit underlined in red pen because I am certain that at some point in our application process that is moving along like molasses, I am going to have to justify the lack of cattle on our farm.

The standard also explicitly discourages finding loopholes for financial advantage. I will put a little faint star in pencil beside this section to keep it in mind. I don’t want to miss certification just because we might appear to be overly thrifty. It’s possible that we should be acquiring a fresh stock of cow horns. We’ll evaluate that when we dig them up later in the year.

Before running out of word count, let me return to the Biodynamic story of stuffing horns with manure. It’s a messy job—the crux of it being getting the manure far enough into the horn. As it happens, the perfect tool for effective packing is a spare horn. I love discovering efficiencies.

We buried around 15 manure-stuffed horns. The more devoted practitioners claim to be able to hear the microbial activity taking place down there. When dug up in the late spring they will yield a delightful, luxuriously loamy material that smells divine. We’ll stir it up with water and cover the fields.

For someone whose final P&L of the year will show in stark terms just how far short of a fortune we’ve come again this year, I am using that word “luxury” a lot. I think the secret, since you are wondering, is to make standard adjustments till you feel it too.

helmersorganic.com

Anna Helmer farms in Pemberton and is wondering where all the pelleted Mokum carrot seed has gone.

Featured image: The Cow & Horn. Credit: Goldenwabbit, CC BY-SA 4.0

Organic Stories: Kalala Organic Estate Winery, Syilx Okanagan Territory

in 2024/Climate Change/Crop Production/Fall 2024/Grow Organic/Land Stewardship/Marketing/Organic Community/Organic Stories/Tools & Techniques

The Miracle Place

Darcy Smith

From one Kalala to another, Karnail Sidhu crossed continents and decades to bring Kalala Organic Estate Winery to life. The winery’s name honours the village in Punjab, India, where he was born. Kalala means “miracle place,” says Karnail. “My birthplace has a little legend about how it got its name. One morning, when a farmer came to check on his animals, he saw a wolf and lamb sitting together—a miracle, right?” The people decided to move the village there to capture the harmony of predator and prey coexisting peacefully. “In pursuit of this harmony,” Karnail says, “and to keep my heritage alive,” he chose the name Kalala for his winery.

Karnail grew up on a family farm in Punjab growing wheat, rice, and cotton, to name a few, before studying electrical engineering in school. When he moved to Canada in 1993, he “learned very quickly that they didn’t recognize foreign credentials, so I went back to my roots doing farming.” Karnail’s organic wine journey began at Summerhill Winery under the mentorship of Alan Marks, where he started working in the vineyard in 1996 and eventually became vineyard manager.

While growing grapes in the Okanagan is much different from farming in Punjab, Karnail didn’t struggle to adapt. “If you know how to grow one thing, you can learn to grow other things, if you’re willing to learn. That’s why my farming background helped me a lot here,” he says.

Workers in the field at harvest. Credit: Maylies Lang

After a decade at Summerhill, Karnail was ready to pursue his dream. “I took over my first vineyard in 2001 and turned it organic—we have been organic ever since,” says Karnail. For him, “there’s no other way to do farming if you want to stay healthy.” Especially since farmers, and their families, often live on the farm, he affirms. “Being organic, you are also doing some good through your local community,” he says. “Pesticide spray can travel kilometers, and people might not even know they’re being affected.”

Today, Kalala Organic Estate Winery spans about 70 acres on the upper bench of West Kelowna, cultivating 20 grape varieties, along with apples. Karnail and his team farm six properties in West Bank, one in Oliver, and one in Peachland, with about half the land owned and half leased. All the wines are made using grapes they grow, produced at two facilities: the main Kalala winery and Little Straw Vineyards, which they purchased a few years ago and are transitioning to organic. In addition to wine, they make juice from their own apples and grapes and run a service called Mobile Juice Factory, which processes and packages juice for other farmers.

Karnail Sidhu (left) hands-on at Kalala Organic Estate Winery. Credit: Maylies Lang

Karnail is a big fan of “simple wine making,” he says. “We don’t use any high-tech equipment.” Since much of the winemaking process takes place in winter, they ferment the wine outdoors, relying on nature to regulate temperatures. “We monitor the grapes, the tank’s surface area, and how much heat it loses. That’s a big part of my life.”

This might be where his engineering background proves an unexpected benefit. “One winemaker told me, ‘I want to make this wine but control the temperature.’ I asked him how much juice he had, did the math, and picked the right tank size to let the heat disperse naturally,” he says. “Otherwise, you need a tank, a jacket, and a cooling system.” Similarly, when they do cold stabilization, a method of bringing the temperature of wine down in order to keep tartaric acid crystals from forming, Karnail says “why not just put the wine outside in January, instead of using glycol?”

Karnail has done every job at the winery, “from growing grapes to bottling the wine and everything in between.” But the tasting room might just be his favourite place: “I love to meet people —I’m a very social person,” he says. “Every day in the tasting room is memorable. I enjoy seeing people love our products.”

Grapes in the sunshine. Credit: Maylies Lang.

That said, not every moment in the tasting room has been easy. “Building a winery as someone from a different ethnic background, especially in a field not typically associated with people like me, comes with challenges,” he admits. “Sometimes you do face prejudice because you look different.” He recalls a memorable exchange: “One person asked who made the wine. I said I did, and after tasting it, they said, ‘It’s better than I thought.’ What a compliment! I asked why they thought it wouldn’t taste good, though I already knew the answer. It wasn’t the first time, and it won’t be the last.”

Discrimination is a reality he acknowledges. “People who haven’t experienced it, will never understand it,” Karnail says, though he remains hopeful. “My take on that is people need to be educated about it. Discrimination comes from not knowing and fearing, and with fear comes discrimination. If you can get rid of first two, you will get rid of the last.”

Despite occasional difficulties, Kalala has been well-received, both in the wine industry and with customers. One of his proudest moments was Kalala winning the Chardonnay du Monde award in France: “We are just a small little winery, so to win that was incredible!” And what does one have to do to beat out all those storied French wines? “You have to grow good grapes,” he says. “Wine making is 90 to 95 percent done in the vineyard. If your grapes are good, you can make good wine.” Reflecting on the award-winning 2007 vintage, he laughs, “You can’t make good wine from bad grapes, but you can make bad wine from good grapes!”

Kalala Organic Estate Winery’s sign and vista. Credit: Maylies Lang.

You might think that this global award-winning Chardonnay would hold a similar place in Karnail’s heart, but his favourite grape is a lesser-known variety called Zweigelt. “It’s a great producer and makes fantastic wine,” he says. “It’s one of few I always say you can drink with Indian food—light red, not too heavy bodied, soft tannins (tannins don’t go well with spicy food), very soft and a little spicy itself too.”

Like many winemakers in the Okanagan, the last few years have brought new challenges. Kalala has been impacted by fires, cold, and other climate events. Typically, both the vineyards and wines are certified organic, but last year Karnail had to drop the certification on the wine because they didn’t have enough grapes, and had to use grapes from a vineyard that they are currently transitioning to organic. Still, the impacts on Kalala have not been as severe as some. “I believe organic grapes are a bit more resilient,” he says. While other vineyards have had to do complete or near-complete replants, “I still have plants going. I don’t need to pull out the whole vineyard and replant.” The highest rate of damage in one Kalala vineyard is 22 percent, and in others just one or two percent. “All of my plants are alive.”

Looking ahead, Karnail is focused on preparing for the future. “We can’t game the climate—we have to adapt.” He plans to experiment with climate-resilient varieties and relies on research from places such as the University of Manitoba for cold-hardy grapes.

Karnail inspecting winemaking equipment. Credit: Maylies Lang.

Kalala is looking to the future in other ways, too. Karnail’s children, who grew up on the farm and were involved as kids, are also showing interest in the family business. His eldest daughter, Simran, has joined the family business after finishing her degree, and his younger daughter, currently studying science, may follow suit. “Kalala will be waiting when she’s ready,” Karnail says. “I’ve always told my kids to go to school to learn, not to become something. You’ll figure out what you want to be later.”

The future is bright for Kalala. Karnail dreams of expanding production and creating an education centre to teach people about organic farming. “We need to teach kids about agriculture—it’s the most important education we can give. Agriculture grows on you when you start young. That’s how you build a passion for it—and new farmers.”

In the meantime, Karnail is simply looking forward to next year’s crop. “After a couple of tough seasons, I can’t wait to see what the vineyard gives us.”

kalala.ca

Darcy Smith is the editor of the BC Organic Grower, and a huge fan of organic farmers. She is also the BC Program Manager for Young Agrarians, where she previously managed the BC Land Matching Program.

Featured image: Grape harvest at Kalala Organic Estate Winery. Credit: Maylies Lang

Karnail Sidhu of Kalala Organic Estate Winery.
Credit: Maylies Lang.

Biodynamic Farm Story: Where Anna Contemplates Balance (and Bees)

in Crop Production/Fall 2024/Land Stewardship/Livestock/Organic Community/Preparation/Tools & Techniques

Anna Helmer

The sunny weather is persisting, but the shortening days are denying the heat a chance to build beyond a most pleasant warmth. Even the drought, which is also persisting, has its work cut out for it now that the morning dew is so heavy. We are gunning hard to get through these last few weeks before the hard deadline of winter puts a decisive end to field work.

The goal is always to finish planting garlic, which is the last of the field jobs, the morning before the first snow-laden clouds lower into the valley. At that point, the snow will mercifully cover up and temporarily defeat the farm problem areas. Currently, those areas are rather difficult to ignore, and in some cases running completely amuck.

The heaviest dew in the world isn’t going to irrigate the weak areas of our fields that are now dry and caked, stubbled with dead foliage, and worst of all, contrasting starkly with the lush green of the surrounding healthy areas. These silt-heavy old river beds struggle in the dry, hot summers. Our system of mowing the cover crop to provide lush mulch fails here because there’s nothing to mow. The slightest rain will green it up a little, but it needs so much more. We’ll apply a rye cover crop, and hope it catches before it snows.

Also glaringly obvious is the fact that it’s been a very good year for burdock and thistles on the Helmer Farm. Our efforts to control their growth were inadequate and now we have a daunting gauntlet of prickles and sticky seed heads on the field fringes and wild meadows. Grazing cattle would be so effective at pounding them into submission, if we had any of those.

The honey bees lost the plot and occupied the tool shop for a few days last week. Everything was submerged in a seething mass of bees. It wasn’t a normal swarm though; one where, with kind words and gentle guidance, the precious and industrious bees could be coaxed into a new hive box. No, no, no. They were having none of that. The air was filled with angry little bee missiles, and the tone of the hum was more of a growl, the vibe aggressively anti-human.

Using the full honey frames we had just pulled from the hives, we eventually did manage to entice some masses back into a box, but many, many times that number just died. The tool shop, even cleaned up, has not returned to normal. It retains an odd smell, and the windows are caked with a film of something left behind from the rivers of bees that were crawling on them.

We don’t really understand what happened, although it had to be connected to the honey pull we had just done. It’s not an unusual time to pull honey of course, and we always leave an excessive amount behind in the hive—but for some reason, this time, it made them mad. We upset them terribly. Something went out of whack.

It was after the bee occupation of the tool shop that I realized that the farm may have become a little off-balance. A lot is made of the concept of balance in Biodynamic farming theory. In fact, one of the basic tenets is the recognition that each farm develops a unique identity based on the balance between all the aspects of the farm. The animals, the people, the natural features, the outputs, the inputs—everything matters to everything else, and those relationships influence the whole farm identity.

While every farm, Biodynamic or not, has an identity, the work of the Biodynamic farmer revolves around intentionally keeping the whole thing nicely balanced—the goal being that all farm production is supported by on-farm-sourced fertility. The preparations indicated in the original lectures are unique to Biodynamics and are intended to help achieve the balance.

Theoretically, it’s a noble goal and is also useful for creating smarmy farm descriptions. Reality, as usual, treats such carefully constructed, high-minded idealism rather roughly. At this point in the season, and perhaps this year more than others, the balance on our farm has been dis-rupted. The crispy field areas, the burdock and thistles, the bee’s occupy movement—these are indications of more teeter than totter, if you catch my drift.

There is a path to balance. While I would not attempt to control the crispy, flighty, clingy, and stingy energy of the farm this fall, we can certainly add something calm, cool, and collected. Cattle, for example, would be perfect. Perhaps around a thousand would do? I haven’t told you the half of what’s going on.

Well, we aren’t doing that, but we have the next best thing: BD500. If we can cover as much ground as possible with this preparation, I think we can regain the poise of the farm. The timing is perfect: the earth is about to take its last big inhalation before the winter.

I need to think more about what that means exactly, but I like the imagery.

helmersorganic.com

Anna Helmer farms in Pemberton and hopes next year is a good one for agriculture in BC.

Featured image: Swarm of bees. Credit: (CC) Sid Mosdell from New Zealand.

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